Thursday, September 29, 2011

An update - finally!

Well, as you could probably tell, I seem to be a pahetic blogger.  I guess I've been climbing too much.  Rather than writing about everything that's happened since my last post, I thought I'd give an update on our last trip to Tensleep.

Jess and I headed down to Tensleep last Thursday night.  On Friday morning we headed up to the Supererratic.  After a warmup on Big Yellow Butterfly, we tested our slab skills on Black Slabbath (12b/c).  Turns out it wasn't as bad as it looked!  I was able to onsight it and Jess put it down on her second go.  Jess' goal for the weekend was to try and send Neutral Spirit (13a).  I put draws up on it, remembering how heinous the mono move is.  Definately shut me down. 

Then it was on to my objective for the weekend, He Biggum (13d).  Even knowing the route is partially manufactured, it is hard not to want to climb this thing.  It is a streak of beautiful, smooth orange stone.  My first go went pretty well.  The route features long pulls between good pockets with bad feet.  Then at about 3/4 height, there is a hard deadpoint move.  By my 4th go of the day, I was able to get the route down to one hang.

Jess tried Neutral Spirit several times, but had a hard time with the mono move.  She left draws up on it, but wasn't sure it would be doable for the weekend.

On Saturday, we headed back up to the Supererratic.  My first go on He Biggum, I got to my highpoint from Friday and fell at the deadpoint move.  I got the move worked out and amazingly was able to send the route my second go of the day.  Despite it's chipped nature, this is a really cool route and I am psyched to have done it.  Jess decided to throw in the towel on her project and focus on something else.  I put draws up on Walk the Dawg (12c).  Jess did pretty well on it her first try, one hung it her second go and then sent!  It's a really techy, slabby, thin route and this is turning out to be Jess' forte.

Kevin Macartney was down in Tensleep for the weekend and was trying The Increadible Horsecock.  He made some great progresss on it and ended up sending on Sunday.  Nice work Kevin!  Kevin had tried Tatonka (13a) earlier in the day and gave me the beta he'd figured out.  I gave it a flash go and was able to make it through.  It's been a long time since I've flashed or onsighted anything hard, so I was really happy with it.

On Sunday, we checked out a new area, Downtown and the Cigar.  This is a sweet option for the morning because the climbs are on the shady side of a freestanding pillar and climbs well in the morning.  We started on the slab behind the pillar which probably goes at 5.10.  I then got on Floyd Direct (12a).  I pulled through the tough two finger move at the bottom and got to the top.  I sprayed Jess down with the beta and she flashed it, her first 12a flash!  I then set my sights on The Gravy Train (12b).  This thing felt so hard!  There are some really long moves at the top!  I still squeaked out the onsight, but barely.  Jess gave it a go on TR.  Next was an onsight attempt on The Name of the Game (13a).  Another guy climbing at the wall had the draws up on it, so I figured, why not?  Amazingly, I made it through for an onsight.  I was really psyched.  I've only onsighted a few routes at this grade.  I finished the day off by flashing Have a Sneegar (12c) to finish off the formation.  Good day! 

In other news, I had to work some overtime a couple weeks ago and used the money to order a drill!  It's a 36v Bosch compact and it comes on Tuesday. I can't wait!  I was also able to get out and try a route I bolted about a month ago and I think it's going to be pretty hard.  We'll see when I get back out there

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Fall weather is here, so get out and crush some rock!

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